Paper Piecing: Step By Step

Posted on October 28, 2008 by ofenjen

I receive a lot of emails about paper piecing each week. While many of them are in reference to my Harry Potter group over on Livejournal, even more of the messages are from new and experienced quilters alike, with comments about the technique itself. Most commonly, I hear one of two things. Either that the person emailing had never quilted and saw a pattern they really wanted to try and just went for it, then was surprised that it wasn’t as hard as they thought OR that they have wanted to try it for years and it looks too hard to them.

I’m always thrilled to hear from quilters of all skill levels, and any time I can help in whatever small way, it’s my great pleasure to do so.

Paper piecing can be daunting to someone that either hasn’t tried it before or tried a technique that confused them. I myself tried three separate tutorials before it stuck. It was a combination of those different tutorials that helped me understand it better, and while I do have my own How To now, I still recommend checking out several tutorials and deciding on what techniques are right for yourself.

That said, this is how I paper piece. Each pattern is the same. They all have the same basic set up and the same basic rules will always apply. Even thought designers sometimes draw their patterns differently, the technique remains the same.

How To Paper Piece
© Jennifer Ofenstein
originally published on the main sewhooked site

click on tutorial images to see larger versions

Supplies

pattern (Jar v.3 used in tutorial)

quilting fabric

neutral thread

paper scissors

fabric scissors

post card or thin straight edge

flat head pins

rotary cutter*

rotary ruler

wall paper seam roller (available at home improvement stores)

*note – I keep two rotary cutters, one for traditional piecing and one for trimming paper pieced blocks. The “just fabric” cutter gets the new blade, and when it begins to dull, I transfer it to the “paper” rotary cutter.

Not shown above:

cutting mat
dry iron
sewing machine
open toe foot
light source

Start by making a copy or print out of the pattern you want to make. Use lightweight paper for your patterns, as it tears off easier. Recycled printer paper works well, as does tracing paper and some drawing papers. There are also a number of commercially available products just for paper piecing.

Choose fabrics you think will compliment the pattern. Always use good quality 100% cotton quilting fabric.

Use paper scissors to trim outside the gray seam allowance of individual pieces of the pattern.

Starting with pattern piece “A,” use the post card as a straight edge, fold the pattern piece on the line between 1 and 2. This is your stitching line.

Repeat for the line between 1 and 3.

Place fabric 1 right side up on back of the paper opposite piece 1 (use a light source behind the pattern if you need it to make sure the fabric is big enough). Make sure you have a generous seam allowance (approximately 1/2″) all around.

Flip the pattern over

Place fabric 2 wrong side up on fabric 1. Make sure to slide both pieces of fabric 1/4” past the stitching line.

Using a small stitch (10-12 stitches per inch), start two stitches before the stitching line, stitch along the line and take two stitches after the end. By stitching slightly pass the line, it is less likely that the ends the stitches will pull out when the paper is removed.

Trim thread to paper.

Fold fabric two out. Gently dry press with an iron OR use the wall paper seam roller (shown) to press out the seam. Be careful not to pull or tug on the fabric.

Fold on the 1 > 3 line. Keep the paper folded then flip the pattern over. Trim a generous 1/4″ from piece 1.

Unfold the paper. Place fabric 3 wrong side up on fabric 1. Make sure to slide both pieces of fabric 1/4” past the stitching line.

Repeat stitching as for line 1 > 2.

Press as before.

Trim fabric around pattern piece, leaving a generous amount for squaring up later.

Press pattern piece “A” with a gentle up and down motion using a dry iron. Do not pull or tug the fabric.

Now for pattern piece “B.”

Using the postcard or straight edge, fold down the lines between section 1 > 2 and 1 > 3.

Trim a generous 1/4″ seam allowance for piece 1 >2. Repeat for 1 > 3.

Just as for pattern piece “A,” place fabric 1 right side up on back of the paper opposite piece 1. Make sure you have a generous seam allowance (approximately 1/2″) all around.

Stitch on the line between piece 1 > 2 as in previous steps. Repeat for pieces 1 > 3.

Press out seams as before.

Trim fabric, leaving a generous seam allowance for squaring up later.

Press as before.

This is what you should have so far.

On your cutting mat and with your ruler, find the blue line on piece “B.”

Cut 1/4″ from blue line. (note: Not all paper pieced patterns include seam allowance. All of my patterns do, but if you’re ever working on a pattern without seam allowance, it’s important to not forget that and accidentally trim off too much!)

Find the blue line on piece “A” and repeat the process.

Now the “A” pattern piece is ready to join to the “B” pattern piece.

Use a pin to find the outside corner at the end of a blue line. Push the pin through this point.

Find the corresponding point on the other pattern piece. Push the pin through.

Push the pin all the way through to line up the pattern pieces.

Using the pin keep the pattern aligned, stitch along the blue line.

This is what you have now.

Remove the paper seam allowance that was just stitched on the “A” piece.

Repeat for the “B” piece.

Open the block and press as before.

Now you have this from the front.

And you have this from the back.

Time to square up the block! Find the blue line on one side (for more complicated patterns, find the straightest line).

Cut 1/4″ from the blue line.

Using the first cut, square up the block to 5 1/2″. If the pattern is a little off, go with the ruler’s measurement and not the seam allowance on the pattern.

Now you have this…all squared up! Leave the paper attached until the block is in it’s final location. That will keep the bias seams from stretching.

From the front.

Finished block, 5″ (shown without seam allowance). Use this block for quilts, pillows, bags, pot holders, wall hangings or anywhere else you’d use a square of fabric or a quilt block!

Other great beginner patterns

click on the image for the pattern or visit sewhooked